I picked up Stealing the Wave when I didn't have anything to read at lunch a few weeks ago - testament to how short my lunches are now that it's taken me this long to read it. It's all about the surfing at Waimea Bay in the 80s and 90s, and in particular, the rivalry during that period between Ken Bradshaw and Mark Foo. I learned quite a bit about the whole scene; from Eddie Aikau's story (and where "Eddie would go" came from) to the origins of tow-in surfing. And, of course, why Foo was at Mavericks when he died.
I didn't like Andy Martin's writing style at first. Seemed like he tried to work too many vocab words in for no good reason, seemed a little self-consciously poetic. He used the term cordon sanitaire at least twice. But I got used to it, and I would call this a good read.
Book 19
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